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Véronique Gauthier-Simmons's avatar

I am intrigued! I only know fenugreek as an ingredient in curries. I cannot imagine hilbeh taste 🤔🤔🤔 Well: only one way to find out… 🙏

Elli Benaiah's avatar

It's an acquired taste. But hey, 43 million Yemenites cannot be wrong...

Arjun Bali's avatar

Super interesting. I wonder if the ‘methi tadka’ arrived in the subcontinent with the diaspora, or if it is a homegrown innovation.

Elli Benaiah's avatar

These two are apparent unrelated solutions to the same problem (fenugreek is bitter), arising independently - one a pan-Indian seasoning convention, the other a Yemenite preparation that Jewish migration carried into India alongside, not through, the existing methi vocabulary. But clearly blooming is a different technique than fermenting.

Jack McNulty's avatar

Thank you... This is a fantastic read, and now my mouth is puckering with delight...

Elli Benaiah's avatar

It`s incredibly good. Your'e invited this Friday night, but please don`t tell anyone...I'm afraid there won't be enough to go around...

Jack McNulty's avatar

A gracious offer, indeed. Thank you!

Perhaps another time…there seems to be so much to discuss about Jewish food - and certainly more for me to learn…

Elli Benaiah's avatar

There is, I think; and that really is the thrust of why I write. To expose the lesser obvious, to reveal the many flavour layers that millenia of diaspora have created. I call it culinary archaeology...right now is about the connection between Yemen and India, but there so much more yet to explore, and so much more than the lifetime I have been given.

Jack McNulty's avatar

Culinary archaeology is a beautiful term!

My particular interest is the influence North African Jews had throughout the Mediterranean…a complex and involved story that sheds light on my Moroccan heritage (at least half of me)…

I agree…the connection of flavors and techniques between the Jewish world and India is absolutely fascinating…and that reminds me, I need to make a fresh batch of Green Zhug!

Elli Benaiah's avatar

Hope you have the right recipe. And remember, no oil…it’s not pesto.

Jack McNulty's avatar

Yet another topic to discuss one day. Me…well…I’m too lazy to pound it with a mortar/pestle, so I resort to the faster small blender method - and I use a small amount of water to get everything turning. I know oil is controversial. Some swear by it, while others swear at it.

I use fresh garlic, fresh green chili peppers, ground coriander seeds, ground cardamom, ground cumin, flat-leaf parsley, fresh coriander, salt, black pepper...and depending on my mood a small amount of water or that dreaded oil. I hope this is not too insulting...

Susy Slais's avatar

I have to admit I don't know these flavors at all, so I can't comment on hilbeh itself. But I loved learning about it through your essay. Food traditions are fascinating because they teach us that what one culture considers a simple condiment may be essential to another. Reading this made me appreciate how much history, memory, and identity are hidden in everyday dishes. Thank you for sharing a small piece of Yemen with your readers.

Elli Benaiah's avatar

Thank you Susie. Good to hear from you - the Yemen-to-India thread is one I keep pulling on in tracing Jewish Indian cuisine. It's a two-way route: Yemeni flavors reaching India, and Indian ones travelling back, and I find it endlessly fascinating. Glad it landed.